Well, I came across a magic line of HTML for making a website look basically readable on an iPhone. Not magic in the sense that I don't understand what it does. But magic in the sense that its a single line that is the first big step to making a site look OK.
The line is (to go in your
<meta name="viewport" content="width = device-width" />
What it does is make the iPhone web browser render the HTML at a sensible readable font size, with word wrapping at the end of the screen. (the default, otherwise, is to try to fit a regular screen worth of pixels across, then zoom out to make it fit on the small iPhone screen - that means the user has to zoom and pan to do anything).
Now my pages still look like crappy hand written HTML, but at least they're readable on an iPhone now.
I added this to the shellinabox installation I have on barwen.ch, and now its much prettier to use a browser-based shell on an iphone - you get a 30 character terminal thats at sensible font size, rather than a wide wide terminal at unreadable font size.